Article by David Altman
In this article I will show you the proper knife sharpening methods for the knives you use in your kitchen everyday. Sharpening knives has the reputation of being the most difficult maintenance task. Without the proper tools and procedures, it can be.
Here are some basic instructions. Today’s modern stainless steel knives are very hard and with some maintenance will stay sharp for a long time. Most times, if the knife is not too bad, you can “sharpen” the blade by just running it across a sharpening steel. A sharpening steel is a round steel rod included in most older or more high end cutlery knife sets or available as an accessory item.
To sharpen, simply hold the steel upright with the tip pressed against a solid surface and run the knife downward at a 20 degree angle. This is not a sharpening device. It simply corrects the rounded over edge. If this procedure does not fix the problem, move on to knife sharpening.
Most of the tools designed where you simply pull the knife through some guides will not align the edge. The edge rolls over with use, especially if used on a hard surface like glass or ceramic. Keep the knife sharp. More people are injured by a dull knife than a sharp one.
Warning: Anything that has a sharp edge can be dangerous. Knife safety is YOUR responsibility. Keep your fingers away from the blade. Accidents do happen. Let’s not make you a statistic. Go slow, stay focused and most important pay attention.
Tools required for sharpening non-serrated knives:
Sharpening Stones. Now we are getting to the real workhorse of any knife sharpening system. Stones come in many different shapes, sizes and grits. The finer the grit, the less scratches it leaves behind; the less material it cuts; and the more work you must put into the final product. A course grit will cut faster, but will leave more scratches in the metal. (e.g., 80 grit stones will leave 80 scratches per inch, 120 grit will leave 120 scratches per inch) When you use a 1600 grit stone, will you will really have to look to find the scratches.
There are many choices for you in this area. There is everything from the basic pocket stone to bench top stones to the really fancy motorized sharpeners. I guess I tend to be old school and like to use the bench top stone as it is clamped to the work bench top and the knife is dragged across the stone. I use a wooden block cut at a 20 degree angle to help me keep the knife at what I consider to be the optimal angle for a knife.
Types of stones range from Arkansas Stones to Diamond to Japanese Water stones to India Stones to traditional grey or tan stones made from aluminum oxide. The bottom line is that the preference is up to you. I have some friends that swear the Arkansas stones are the best in the world. I think the real difference is the user, their skill level and patience level. Whatever you buy, the stone should be flat and large enough to make the sharpening easy for you.
Tools required for sharpening serrated knives:
Angle tools which are also called a rod and clamp system. This knife sharpening system uses a clamp that attaches to the back side of the knife blade and has guide holes to help the sharpening stones maintain the correct angle. The clamp will greatly assist you by constantly using the correct angle. Keep the stones lubricated with oil. The only real drawback is that on long knives, the vise/guide must be moved along the blade to keep the angle consistent. Both do an excellent job.
Remember take your time and work carefully to avoid getting cut.
For more in detailed instructions on knife sharpening, including photographs, please visit: Knife Sharpening How Tos